![]() However, mine does not sound as good as my vintage 5D3 tweed Fender Deluxe or tweed Gibson GA-18T Explorer, so I leave it with family for times that I visit back home. It responds well to HB and single coil pickups and handles most pedals well. It's a good sounding amp - better to my ears than a Tweaker and most other modern amps in the same price range. Consequently, the MMB is very sensitive to preamp tube swaps and speaker selection. So, you have a pair of 6V6's (like mine) or 6AQ5's and a single 12AX7 preamp tube. It has an unusual phase inverter based on a transformer - theoretically superior to any tube PI scheme - and SS rectifier. I've tried mine with the stock speaker (inefficient, low volume, early breakup), and Eminence Cannabis Rex (maybe too much for the amp, a little stiff in the mids), and an Eminence that is OEM for the TRRI (best balance overall, less volume than the C.Rex, much more than stock). The good news is that you don't really need a tone control in more cases than you'd imagine. The only thing i really not sure of (thinking about it now) is whether or not the the schematic had 6V6s or if it was the 6BQ5(EL84) version.Īll the ones I found online that with the mains drawn the way Im describing have 6BQ5s, and the amp I was working on had 6V6s.They are good amps, especially for the price, but suffer from a nearly useless tone control. ![]() ![]() But Im pretty sure I remember it looking like original Fender. Is it possible you're working drom the "unofficial" schematic? And thatcthe creator's example had one of those batshit bare wire fuses but it was mistaken for a piece of wire? The single Fender layout diagram I found did not show anything either. But a third "unofficial" schematic seemed common that was NOT official Fender, that did not show anything. I found two official Fender schematics one of which showed a "CSA Thermal Protector" & the other which showed a regular fuse. But they also look a good bit different from any official Fender schem I've seen, compared to others of thecsame period. Have any of you run into this on this model?ĥ4144Now that's cheap and dangerous of the bean counter.Įdit: seems all of the "homenade" schematics show 6AQ5s. ![]() The mains current didn't exceed much more than ≈500mA at full output, so I chose a value of 1A/slow. The cap was removed, and installed an inline cap from the live to the power switch.īefore choosing a value, I ran the amp into clipping at full power, while monitoring the mains current draw. Inside, there was the typical 70's fender tag strip with one of the legs of the incoming mains coupled to the chassis with the blue radial cap. Apparently, fender installed what appears to be a thermal fuse in some other/later models. It has a UL sticker on the back panel as well. I double checked on the schematic and confirmed that it was designed and built without one, which is crazy to me. Production of the Fender Musicmaster bass ceased in 1983. It was also available as part of a set with the 12w single 12' speaker Fender Musicmaster bass amp. Initially available in red, white, or blue finishes, but also black and white, from the mid 1970s. I mean, there was no mains fuse at all, and there never was in this amp!!. Kalamazoo KB1 bass Harmony H25 bass The Musicmaster was available from 1970. Not like, the fuse was missing from the fuse holder. So, after replacing the mains power cord with a new molded plug, I went to check the fuse and. One of the other routine checks I make, particularly in vintage amps, is confirming the fuse value and rating is the one specified. More often than not, it's a disaster and it gets replaced–as this one did. We see this a lot, and I always check the condition and wiring inside. The molded plug end had been replaced by an old 3-prong replacement with screw terminals. We had a 70's Musicmaster Bass amp that came in for general cleaning/service (dates to '79, it looks like).
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